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When assembling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred names. However, tucked high among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu located in a distant part of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. The recognition has left the family totally shocked.

“I am utterly astonished,” states the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest place earning such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent consistency.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this culinary honour.